You may have heard of parabens, sulphates and petrochemicals falling out of favour with skincare fans — but water? It seems an unlikely ‘undesirable’, but humble H2O is the latest skincare ingredient non grata.
Originating in South Korea, the waterless beauty trend is getting a foothold around the world thanks to its eco credentials: with water shaping up to be our most precious resource, any brand that limits its consumption is garnering brownie points.
Cosmetics giant L’Oreal, for example, has committed to a 60 per cent reduction in water use per finished product.
From a skincare perspective, the main argument for going waterless is that it makes products more concentrated. With most skincare containing 70 to 95 per cent water, it could be argued that our usual potions are more ‘filler’ than ‘killer’.
Ingeborg Van Lotringen explored the waterless skincare trend that is gaining a foothold across the world. Pictured: Alpha-H Vitamin C Paste, £40 for 30ml
Being predominantly oil-based, a waterless skincare regime is especially beneficial for mature and dry skin lacking in sebum produced by the body. But anyone can take advantage of these products’ high levels of active and nourishing ingredients.
True, water is essential to skin health, and to the delivery of some active ingredients, so it’s not advisable to completely eliminate it, and water-binding humectants such as glycerine, from your regime altogether.
However, the new waterless creations substitute aqua for liquids with added value, such as plant saps including aloe vera juice; rice bran water teeming with vitamins; and sebum-like botanical oils rich in essential fatty acids.
Plus, in the case of some active ingredients, water is not just undesirable, it’s destructive. Ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C), to name one, begins to lose its potency when mixed with water, so finding a water-free (anhydrous) formula is essential if you want to maximise its collagen-boosting and brightening benefits.
What you can end up with is a formula that fires on all cylinders, with a substantially enhanced payoff for your skin.
It can also be argued that waterless skincare is ‘gentler’ and ‘cleaner’ than your average water-and-oil emulsion.
Bacteria thrive when water is present, whereas they cannot proliferate in oil-based preparations. Leaving out water therefore minimises the need for preservatives such as parabens and phenoxyethanol, which can cause skin irritation. Just beware if the water in a product has been substituted for essential oils, as high levels of fragrance can be the greatest irritant of all.
In terms of your regime, eliminating water from the cleansing process in particular can be a dry-skin saviour. That tight feeling you get each time you’ve taken a bath or splashed water on your face isn’t just your imagination: plain water slightly dries out skin, as it is more alkaline.
Ingeborg advises against using oil on your skin, because it is likely to clog your pores or cause irritation. Pictured: Esse Probiotic Serum
For most, this is easily corrected with a pH-balancing toner or a cream that seals in water before it evaporates. But if your skin is exceptionally dry or sensitive, cleansing with oils could be the way forward. Oil attracts oil, so you’ll be surprised at how effective it is at removing impurities.
Most cleansing oils and balms need to be rinsed off, but there are some oil-based cleansers that can be tissued off for a 100 per cent water-free cleanse.
Just resist reaching for oils from your kitchen cabinet: many, such as coconut oil and olive oil, are likely to clog your pores or irritate.
Cosmetic oils, in contrast, are lipid blends formulated to purify without causing congestion.
You may pay extra, but a little of these potions goes a long way — and glowing, comfortable skin could be your reward…
THE VITAMIN BOOST
Alpha-H Vitamin C Paste, £40 for 30ml, alpha-h.com
Pure ascorbic acid, the active ingredient here, is firming and brightening, but deactivates when mixed with water.
‘So we contained it in a water-free, moisturising silicone and shea butter base, ensuring maximum absorption,’ says Tom Ogden of Alpha-H. Just be careful not to rub it in too long as it can pill (flake off). 4/5
THE SERUM
Esse Probiotic Serum, £100, esseskincare.co.uk
This serum features live probiotic (healthy) bacteria, kept dormant in their oil base.
‘They wake on contact with the water in your skin, upon which they proliferate (you want this to happen on the skin, not in the bottle!) and start working their magic, restoring the protective skin barrier and nursing skin back to health,’ says Esse’s Trevor Steyn. It leaves skin supple but not greasy. 5/5
Instant Magic Facial Dry Sheet Mask (pictured) is infused with lipids, that leaves skin glowing and banishes dry patches
THE FACE MASK
Instant Magic Facial Dry Sheet Mask, £18, charlottetilbury.com
The dry mask is infused with lipids that melt into skin once warmed by your body heat.
‘It means the oils sink in deeply without the use of potentially harsh penetrating agents,’ says Charlotte Tilbury. It leaves you with a glow and banishes dry patches. The absence of water also lets you reuse this several times.4/5
THE MULTITASKER
Frances Prescott Tri-Balm, £46, francesprescott.com
Frances Prescott Tri-Balm (pictured) uses oils to leave skin feeling nourished
Massage in this lipid-based stick balm with fruit enzymes to melt make-up and cleanse, then wash off — or leave on as a radiance-boosting moisturiser.
‘No water meant I could avoid preservatives and have a product of undiluted potency,’ says Frances Prescott. The oils leave skin feeling wonderfully nourished.4/5
THE SUNSCREEN
Tropic Sun Stick SPF50+, £20, tropicskincare.com
Tropic Sun Stick SPF50+ (pictured) features mineral sun filters and soothing botanical extracts, while also being preservative-free
Sensitive skin often reacts to chemical sun filters as well as preservatives. ‘Aside from using mineral (non-irritating) sun filters and soothing botanical extracts, we made this stick for ultra-sensitive patches waterless so it could be preservative-free,’ says founder Susie Ma. 3/5
THE BALM
Jane Scrivner Morning Barrier Balm, £49, janescrivner.com
Jane Scrivner Morning Barrier Balm (pictured) sets skin up for the day with lipid barrier-strengthening oils
This balm is made up of plant oils. ‘The beauty of pure oils and butters is that there’s no need to dilute or add anything,’ says Jane Scrivner. ‘Your skin will simply absorb the nutrients.’
The name says it all: this sets skin up for the day with lipid barrier-strengthening oils. 5/5